BLACKPIPES

pullstart, 2 months l8r

This post is an update to this post.  

The opposite of what I thought would happen happened.  Instead of the washer being bent by the force of the teeth yanking on it, the teeth were the ones that succomed to mortality.  

poor ‘lil teeth, I hardly knew ya.  Realistically, I should’ve expected this; the teeth are aluminum and the washer is steel.  oh well, time to try something else.  

I must have been drunk when I made the first version of this.  As you may or may not recall, I used a puch flywheel cover as a spacer over top of the hobbit flywheel cover to get the needed clearance.  Well, that was dumb and unnecessary.  

Not sure if that really describes what I did, but the spacer I needed between the recoil and the flywheel cover was under my nose the whole dang time…

keep it simple keep it simple keep it simple…

-DW

A cheap, effective pull start for hobbits

One thing that sucks about hobbit engines is the starter clutch. Here’s what I did to get around this problem.  

The only way to fix this problem is to remove the starter clutch completely.  If you do that, you have to figure out another way to start the bike.  There is a kickstart available for pa50s but they’re expensive and you have to order them from the Netherlands.  I really couldn’t be bothered with that.  I decided that a pull start would be the cheapest way to go, so I started researching.  

I used this guide to get a basic idea of what I was looking for.  Unfortunately, with that design, there is no way for pedals to clear.  Also, with this new MMM Destroyer that I’m running, I wouldn’t be able to keep my pedals parallel to the ground.  Not cool.  s’anyway, here’s what I came up with.  

First, I took off the starter clutch and threw it away.  

Then I bought this pull starter (it’s an ebay auction, if the link is broken, email me and I’ll help ya out.)  actually, now that I look at it I think it’s the exact same one from the guide above.  okay cool, moving on.  

Next step was to make something for the recoil to grab onto.  

I removed the stock washer and replaced it with a more manly one.  I cut four slices into the edge and bent it up.  With this and a notched variator you can have a blender on either side of your moped, how fun!

before & after:

oh, make sure all four “arms” are bent evenly, so the recoil doesn’t just grab one of them.  I’m not sure if this is going to work in the long run.  I may or may not need to weld in little supports.  I’ll update this post if I find that to be the case.  

Next step: mount the recoil to something.  I chose to use the stock flywheel cover because it already bolts to the dang moped.  I used a puch flywheel cover on top of the honda one for more clearance and some washers in between the two covers until it was all spaced properly.  Peep dis:  http://blackpipes.tumblr.com/post/7401903847/pullstart-2-months-l8r

So here it is.

The pedals clear by about 1mm.  <$20 spent.  I’m happy.

-DW